Gergeti

Gergeti

niedziela, 10 stycznia 2016

Day 7. Sighnaghi, vineyard and Davit Gareji [EN]

Day 7. Wednesday 27th May 2015


Sighnaghi - no one could pronounce it correctly. There were several versions: Singagi, Signagi, Sihnagi and even the original name said by a Georgian man was difficult to repeat: SIGHNAGHI, where the sound "h" is very resonant and "snarling".

Sighnaghi is a small but very charming town on a hill, surrounded by a fortified wall. That time in May it was almost empty, no tourists, just a few residents sitting on the benches.  They greeted us and talked to us, so we answered with a smile, "Gamardżoba!" - Good afternoon!







Then, walking through the square one eldery man started to talk to us. Having learned that we were from Poland he put his hand on his heart and expressed his great liking for our nation. He referred to the political situation (support for Georgia during the Russian-Georgian war in 2008 given by our President – dec. Lech Kaczynski) and his own experience with the Poles. (Georgians appreciate the Poles a lot and it can be felt everywhere. This is a very nice feeling). Although our communication in the Russian language was not smooth, the man was happy to tell us various interesting facts about the town. He showed us a place from which you could see defensive wall of Sighnaghi (similar to the Chinese Wall), fields of grapevines and remote, snowy mountain range on the border with Azerbaijan. Beautiful view!

The view over the defensive wall of Sighnaghi, grapevine's fields and the remote Caucasus mountains..


Nearby, there was a restaurant with a beautiful terrace. We all agreed to eat dinner exactly there. All together, no dispute! Ah, to eat lunch with such a view !? It’s a dream! And then it came true!

The view from the terrace of the restaurant..



The food served in this restaurant was delicious...
We tasted:
- Yoghurt soup.
- Tolma - (Golubci minced pork, beef with fresh herbs and onion and rice grapped in grape leaves)
- Ajapsandalii-ratatouille - aubergine with potatoes, sweet pepper and tomatoes




Vineyard Pheasant's Tears is a brand of wines made of grapes from all over the region of Kakheti. The place is a small museum where you can see interesting exhibition and learn many facts about Georgian wines and the art of wine production.
The entrance costs 15 Lari,  time of visit - 30 minutes. The price includes a guided tour and tasting.
After we visited wine cellar and two rooms with exhibition, we were invited to the table with wine glasses and four bottles of wine. The guide – who was also the owner of the vineyard and specialist in this field, told us about the activities of the vineyard, the production process (they do not add sugar), and the characteristics of each wine. I remember that in Georgia there are more than 500 varieties of grapes (thanks to diversified microclimate), and famous vodka - chacha - is made of grapes' skin. Interestingly, I asked also where the name of Pheasant's Tears came from. Well, in Georgia they say that if something is very good, it tastes like tears of a pheasant. Lovely metaphor. 

Vineyard Pheasants' Tears






fot. Justyna Kochańska

And we ;) "Gaumardżos!"



Part of the garden and a viewpoint next to the church of St. Nino








fot. Justyna Kochańska

On the way there is only one tiny village Udabno.  Several houses and small farms in the middle of nothing. As we previously read, just right there a Polish couple opened a restaurant called "Oasis Club". Since it is the only restaurant in the village it is visible enough; it is a white building with colorful shutters located next to the road. Unfortunately, due to very limited time we did not stop there. We were afraid that we would get to the monastery after sunset and would not see much. It is a shame, but we have another reason to come back to Georgia!
- "Oasis Club - next time dziewoszki!" - we said to ourselves.
But the next day in our hostel in Tbilisi we met two Polish guys who were living in Udabno and working in Oasis Club! They came to the capital to do shopping (to put things in stock). "What a coincidence!" They told us about this place, the life there (one of them lived there already for three years!), that they opened a hostel as more and more tourists stay there. Great! Oasis Club - a small restaurant set up by two Poles promotes the village Udabno and Georgia! Brilliant idea! Congratulations and good luck!



Justyna - our "risky" photographer, before running away from the sheepdog.


Davit Gareji - a complex of monasteries in rocks with chapels, halls and sacred remains dating from the VI-XIII century AD, founded by a monk Davit Gereji. The entrance is free and it is open until sunset. We were there before 7 p.m. and we managed to get around the courtyard and climb to the viewpoint on the rock with sacred spring. It is also possible to climb on the top of the mountain, which is the border with Azerbaijan. But for us it was too late to be able to get down still in daylight.
This is another very interesting monument, but I personally, was much more impressed by the route itself... Anyone who loves space, needs to come and see it.

Green fields changing into rocks..

Chapels engraved in a rock...



Tradicionally, our five ;)









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